SRI LANKA: THE STILL POINT OF THE TURNING WORLD

Sri Lanka - T. S. Eliot, in Four Quartets, wrote of “the still point of the turning world” and in Sri Lanka, it feels exactly that: as if time has stopped — as if you’ve stepped into a tropical version of Call Me By Your Name.

Just six degrees above the Equator, it sits like a small concentrated pearl, as though all the richness of Eurasia has drained into it. A teeny-tiny island jam-packed with palm-flanked beaches, tropical rainforest, verdant plains, rice fields and rolling tea-covered hills and mountains — deeply charismatic, wildly glamorous, yet wholesome.

with the teens - We’ve just returned from a two-week trip exploring Sri Lanka with the teens. We zig-zagged our way through the wildlife of Wilpattu, the ancient culture of Anuradhapura into palm-fringed beaches culminating in tea-country. Here the luxury lies in boutique hotels, heartfelt hospitality and extraordinary moments.

experiences - Far from the madding crowds we spotted leopards through binoculars, spied sloth bears, barking deer and Asian elephants. We ate sandwiches while leopards prowled nearby as the morning sun rose. We bicycled around the village of Athungama, weaving past bird-rich tanks and lakes, chena and lush fields. From the top of the infamous “Lion Rock” we posed against the backdrop of — Anuradhapura, Polonnaruwa and Sigiriya.

We swam and sunbathed by the East Coast, sidetracked by monkeys and monitor lizards. We played volleyball. We visited a local school and played (an extremely competitive) game of cricket with gorgeous children. We white-water rafted. And we ate. Copious stubby bananas, dahl, curries, roasted cashew nuts and coconut ice-cream.

Skin-plumping damp and heat, the scent of frangipani — all utterly seductive. Everywhere, the island seduced.

Zig-zagging our way across the island over two weeks, our wonderful driver and guide Shanta was integral to our trip and revealed more about the country and its culture than any guidebook ever could.

safari - After flying into Colombo we headed north to Wilpattu National Park. Not to Yala – which is too busy, too obvious. But to Wilpattu. Real leopard country. Past the pastoral-ness and rustic puff of palm trees and red roof tiles, a more unexpected, intriguing side emerges. Bright green tuk-tuks, brown coconuts and rice were piled on the side of the road. Thatch-topped carts bump along behind phlegmatic oxen.

We stayed at Leopard Trail’s off-grid, canvas hidey-hole tents, the focus on the acute joy of isolation where you fall asleep to the sounds of the wild and wake up with the sunrise.

Before I move on, I need to tell you about our guide and game drives. Genuinely, please ask if Malmi is going to be there. He’s an infectious, fantastic talker who during game drives will teach you more about the leopards, elephants, painted storks and monkeys in a few drives than you’ve learned in your whole life.

In Wilpattu, a bright orange dust track weaves through the park, through forests and twisted tree trunks, making it a perfect spot for leopard, who lurk and linger in shadows on quiet, hazy, apricot summer afternoons. It’s a twitcher’s delight. Orange and pink painted storks and fish eagles mooch in its depths unperturbed. There’s a “Mini Mara” and an “Enchanted Forest”. It’s not arduous, or long but brim-full of quiet pleasures. “Turn to your left and there is a Serpent Eagle on that tree to the right of the stone.” Malmi whispers. Her scornful stare so close. It is a dreamy kind of wild and untamed escapade, with mugs of coffee and ginger biscuits wrapped in wax paper. And yes we saw it all. Leopards, Asian elephants – tuskers, babies with fuzzy heads and a very cute Sloth Bear. Trust me you won’t want to leave.

boutique hotels - The hotels we stayed in were gorgeous and luxurious but not overdone and this is a good thing. Beautiful and extremely low-key rather than adorned with sculptures and lights. It all feels authentic (I know I hate that word too, but sometimes no other will do). Moving on from Wilpattu we stayed at Uga Ulawalla, a unique wallawwa with ginormous villas overlooking the reservoir or working paddy fields. The thing that makes this place are the people. They are so friendly and charming — smiley and sweet. You are surrounded by langur monkeys, chipmunks and horses and perfectly positioned to explore Anuradhapura. While you’re there, ask to experience their authentic “Kamatha” meal – a rice paddy dining pavilion serving revered royal recipes from a Kingdom long forgotten. There are 25 different curry dishes which you eat off banana leaves. Once you’ve got over some of the spices, it just might be the greatest long-dinner location in the whole world. It’s magic.

cultural triangle- Our next stop was in the heart of the Cultural Triangle, where we stayed at Water Garden Sigiriya; a liquid-lovely watery wonderland created by Channa Daswatte with trees planted, craters filled and grounds crisscrossed with manmade pools, lakes and streams and backdropped by the eponymous rock fortress. A sanctuary for wildlife - home to 132 species of birds and a few mugger crocodiles! With our beloved Shanta we visited Sigiriya Rock and climbed to the top, past ancient wall paintings, to reach views that extended all the way into the horizon over dense jungle mingled with scorched desert. Happily we dusted off each day with a dip in the pool, lion beers and a moonlit gourmet dinner.

We then headed east to the coast. Uga Bay. It’s all white sand, swaying palms, and the Indian Ocean doing its dazzling thing. A welcome switch off. Long walks. Beachfront Ayurvedic massages. Cocktails. Bliss.

tea country - Tea country was my favourite. In one of the most famous and precious spots in Sri Lanka we twisted our way round hairpin bends through layers of tea plantations, past villages full of houses pushing back the fringes of their falling roofs. Past eucalyptus trees. Past red cala lilies. Past waterfalls. Villagers balancing dried wood on their backs. There are the old markings of plantations – “Somerset” “Edinburgh” etched into the hills. Historic Warleigh Church, Hindu shrines and tea weighing stations.

We stayed in the heart of tea-country at Camellia Hills, a classic tea planter’s bungalow overlooking Castlereagh Reservoir. This place is mesmerising. It will dazzle your eyes with happiness. Steep tea-leafed tiered terraces and romantic landscapes that ribbon out on all sides so you really feel the wild edges of Sri Lanka here, the raw unfettered history of it. Inside there are sandwiches for tea and pretty bedrooms decorated with warm wood floors, high-beamed ceilings, and crisp white décor. It’s full of old school meets new school laid-back charm. Most fun of all is a chalkboard marking up animal sightings on night walks including Leopard, Brahminy Kite and Brown Fish Owls.

Sri Lanka you have my heart. Until next time.

No matter how you choose to experience why not get in touch and let me help you plan your trip.

Clare xx